Seiko’s Presage collection has always been the home of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, combining timeless aesthetics with reliable mechanical movements. For 2025, Seiko expands the Presage Classic Series with two striking new models that honor one of Japan’s most iconic colors: Ai-iro, or “Japan Blue.”

The SPB525 and SPB527 carry forward Seiko’s tradition of blending cultural inspiration with contemporary watchmaking. Both models take cues from the indigo dyes that have been part of Japanese life since the Edo period, offering dials that shimmer with depth and elegance. With thoughtful proportions, refined details, and Seiko’s proven in-house movements, these new releases make a compelling case for enthusiasts seeking something with artistry and everyday wearability.

A Depth of Color

While the Presage Classic Series already features textured and delicately curved dials, these two new models stand out for their interpretation of Ai-iro, a hue that symbolizes tradition, resilience, and understated beauty in Japanese culture.

The SPB525 features a textured indigo dial with a subtle fumé gradient. Depending on the light, the dial shimmers like aventurine glass, giving it a starry, sparkling character. The SPB527 takes a different approach, highlighting its mechanical heart with an open-heart design that displays the balance wheel at nine o’clock. Its sunburst finish adds dynamism, shifting from deep blue to lighter tones under different angles.

Both are unmistakably “Japan Blue,” but with two very different personalities: the SPB525 leans refined and mysterious, while the SPB527 feels more expressive and modern.

Case & Bracelet

The watches share a 40.2mm stainless steel case, which strikes an excellent balance for most wrists. The profile is slim enough for formal wear, yet the curvature of the lugs and the polished sloping bezel add presence on the wrist.

Seiko has opted for a seven-link bracelet that blends brushed and polished surfaces. This design, inspired by vintage Seiko pieces from the 1970s, enhances comfort while adding visual depth. The smaller links contour well, making the watch sit snugly rather than rigidly on the wrist, a subtle but important improvement in the Presage Classic line.

Dial Details

The highlight here is, of course, the dial execution. On the SPB525, the textured gradient dial feels almost like lacquer work, with a smoky periphery that draws the eye toward the center. The applied indices and dauphine-style hands catch reflections, helping legibility despite the darker tone.

The SPB527’s open-heart design creates more visual energy. The exposed movement isn’t just functional—it provides contrast against the clean markers and metallic hands, giving this version a contemporary edge.

Both dials feature curved surfaces that reflect light from different angles, staying true to the “yo no bi” design philosophy. This Japanese concept celebrates the beauty of everyday objects, and here it translates into watches that look different every time you glance at them.

Movement

Inside both models beats Seiko’s dependable 6R series movements. The SPB525 is equipped with the Caliber 6R55, a three-hand automatic with a date display and a healthy 72-hour power reserve. The SPB527 uses the Caliber 6R5J, which shares the same specifications but adds the open-heart complication at nine o’clock.

Both calibers are fully in-house, featuring hacking, hand-winding, and a beat rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. These movements are known for their robustness and practicality, making them a strong fit for watches that balance artistry with daily usability.

Final Thoughts

The Seiko Presage Classic SPB525 and SPB527 are more than just dial variations. They are watches that showcase how cultural heritage can be expressed through modern design. By tapping into the history of Japan Blue, Seiko has created pieces that feel authentic and purposeful rather than decorative.

At around £900 for the SPB525 and £1,060 for the SPB527, these are not entry-level Seikos, but they deliver a strong mix of craftsmanship, movement quality, and cultural storytelling. The textured dials and elegant proportions ensure they stand apart from typical dress watches in this price range.

Specs, Pricing & Availability

Brand: Seiko

Model: Presage Classic Series Ai-iro Japan Blue

Reference: SPB525, SPB527

Dial: Indigo Blue

Lume: None

Case Material: Stainless steel

Diameter: 40.2mm

Thickness: 13mm

Lug-to-Lug: 46mm

Crystal: Dual-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating

Case Back: Sapphire

Water Resistance: 100m

Bracelet: 7-link stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp

Lug Width: 20mm

Movement: Automatic

Calibre: 6R55 (SPB525) / 6R5J open-heart (SPB527)

Frequency: 21,600 Vph

Jewels: 24

Power Reserve: 72 hours

Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date (SPB525), open-heart small seconds (SPB527)

Price: ~£900 (SPB525) / ~£1,060 (SPB527)

Availability: October 2025

Limited Edition: No